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My 2.3 to 2.5 engine swap so far...

11K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  geeshik 
#1 ·
Well, I am getting closer. I have a couple of notes. First, the manual transmission fluid is quite expensive. I ordered the factory specified synthetic version, you can get by without the full synthetic, but there wasn't much difference in cost when you tally up the shipping. It has been said that it is a 75W90 gear oil, but I am not so sure. It didn't smell quite like the gear oil I am familiar with. You will likely need 4 quarts for the manual trans because it specifies 3.1 quarts of fluid. I put in three and it wasn't enough to come out of the fill hole.

So, the engine can come out of the top with a conventional engine hoist. It is tricky, but it can be done. The most difficult thing on my 2006 was getting the lower balljoints free on the driver's side. I will tell you that if you don't buy the factory tool, you will likely have to buy new lower control arms. I had to replace both of mine on the driver's side because the boots and such were destroyed by the time I got them out. I actually used a heavy duty air hammer with round pin attachment after I destroyed two pickle forks. I had an assistant operate the air hammer while I jacked the car up and let it down with one jack and used a bottle jack under the lower control arm ball joint studs lifting up. The whole bushing actually came out of the knuckle. If that happens, the bushings can be reinstalled with a smaller C-Clamp. I used a 6 inch, but I had to really lift the car up to get it in there.

If you wreck the lower balljoints, the cradle does have to be lowered to replace the rear lower control arm. This involves removing some of the interior pieces and the steering column pinch bolt. It is not a fun job to do. So yes, use the factory tool, unless you know your lower control arms are bad anyway.

Once the lower balljoints and the tie rod end are free, the strut assembly with the axle will have enough room to be pivoted out of the way.

When you pull the engine out the top, you have to do it with the transmission together on the manual ones for sure. There wasn't enough room to separate them in the car. Once the lower balljoints and the tie rod end are free, the strut assembly with the axle will have enough room to be pivoted out of the way. I used the slide hammer and axle pulling attachment to pull the driver's side axle out of the transmission (the fluid will leak out if you haven't drained it first). At this point, I took the opportunity to fit a deepwell 1/2 inch drive socket into the hole where the splines of the axle go to keep things from losing their position when the other axle comes out.

The nice thing is that once the bearing mount on the other axle is undone, and all of the engine/trans mounts are off, the engine and trans assembly has enough room to move to the driver's side and the passenger axle will slide out of the hole. There is no spring c-clip that holds it in.

Also, when pulling the engine, the lower half of the driver's side (trans) mount has to come out completely. It is sort of like a three piece set. I found it best to remove all three parts completely. I also had already completely removed the intake, starter, exhaust manifold, hoses, and all accessory attachments (if you undo a couple of clamps on top, the AC unit can be pivoted up and set on the header panel above the radiator without breaking the system).

With those off of the engine, you can position the engine with the transmission close to the firewall, and the crank pulley close to the passenger side headlight and pick it out that way. Just watch around the engine to make sure you aren't making contact with the body or brake booster.

So those are some of my notes. I can't imagine trying to do this on a V6 model. Those engines have even less room around them.

Today I found the belt I need. Since the 2.5 doesn't have a power steering pump, I had to remove that bracket and bolt the accessories all back on before I could try it. Before, with the 2.3's smaller crank pulley (and with the updated tensioner from Ford), I was running a Gates K060895 belt. I had to go up to a K060910 with the larger crank pulley and the newer idler and tensioner that I re-used. I had also replaced the water pump on the 2.5 for peace of mind and I used the smaller water pump pulley from the 2.3 when I did so. I still have to drill out a broken battery box bolt that was rusted in the body, and begin putting connectors and wiring, the intake and such back together.

I am working on making a tool to help make putting in the 2.3 manifold bolts a little easier. So far, I have discovered that if you make the hole on the outside of the manifold (that allows access to the center bolt) just a hair bigger, you can fit a 3/4 inch outer diameter guide into the hole. I wrapped some zip ties around the center bracing for the runner on the intake, and it should support one end of the tube for lining up the bolt with the bolt hole. The trick is finding a tube that has a thin enough wall to fit a socket in it. I tried making one from some 1/2 inch schedule 80 PVC, but once i got the 11/16 drill into it, it started to warp.
 
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#2 ·
ive been running mine on gl5 gear oil for 40k miles now, mobil one full synthetic. spec is gl4 gear oil..about 8 or 9 dollars a quart but shifts great
 
#3 · (Edited)
Another note to add. The adapter plate from 2008Milan worked nice. I have the intake on. The zip-ties I ran around the intake runner support really helped guide the socket and extension to that blind hole in the middle. I took a bunch of pictures when i put it back together to help others in the future when it comes to putting all the lines and hoses in their proper places.

The showstopper, though, came last night when trying to finish up the exhaust. The old catalytic converter bracket does not line up with the holes on the 2.5. It is about 1 7/8 inches higher. I am going to have to figure something out there. I am so close now though.

Added: I did some measuring and it seems like the bolt holes are spaced about 4 1/2 inches horizontally, and the difference being roughly 1 7/8 inches vertically. I did a cardboard mock up, and if I fab a 1/4 inch thick plate with some angles to clear the engine block gusset and other details, I think I can bolt the catalytic converter support up just fine. I have to dig around and see what I have for scrap, or locate a plate roughly 7" by 4" to cut up and drill some clearance holes in for the M10 or M12 bolts.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I finished this up right before December. It runs and drives pretty well. I wouldn't say it is any faster, but I definitely noticed more torque driving it. It used to want to spin the tires all the time, but now it seems a little better balanced.

I had no problems getting the plate from 2008Milan, optimusprime.

I did have an issue with the 2.3 exhaust bolting to the 2.5 engine though. I am not sure if there was a difference in the back of the head for overall height, but when I measured the engine, there was definitely a difference in height from the bottom of the oil pan to the top of the valve cover between the 2.3 and the 2.5. It still fit dimensionally, the hood closes, and the lower splash shield still fit fine. I did have to fab the one bracket for the catalytic converter bracket. I used 3/8 stainless because it was what I had and face milled the lower clearance to space it about 1/4 inch off of the engine surface (a 1/4 inch thick plate would probably accomplish the same thing), adapting the holes nearly two inches higher. I made a paper template. All of my attempts to use a free version of cad software to draw the part failed. Also, the angle of the bolting flange on the catalytic converter mount bracket had to be massaged to match the angle. I put it into my bench vise to do this and re-bolted it back together.


My engine was from a 2010 fusion with an auto trans in the junkyard, going into a 2006 fusion with a manual trans, if that makes a difference at all. I am not sure. There was an extra bolt hole in the oil pan that didn't match the manual transmission pattern, but I believe it has enough to keep things together sufficiently.
 
#7 ·
thanks for taking the time to document things...so overall do you believe its worthwhile?
 
#8 ·
If you've got problems and you need an engine, the 2.5 is the way to go. 2.3s are much harder to find and more expensive on the used engine market. It was $700 for the cheapest junkyard 2.3 that I could find, and it had higher miles. The 2.5 was a steal at about $400 if I remember right.
 
#9 ·
Update

The 2.5 is still working well in my 2006 Fusion. One thing I would have done different was install a shim on the back of the crank to space the flywheel a little closer to the clutch, or I would have ordered a stronger clutch assy. I went with the Exedy brand OE style clutch, and it doesn't seem to want to grab as much as I want it to when push the car hard. When I had my flywheel cleaned up after all the oil was on everything, I had the shim I ordered in my hand, but since very little material needed to be taken off (about .001"), I decided to leave it out.

I am now also thinking about the 2.5 intake adapter kit 2008 Milan has.
 
#10 ·
Recent 2.5 swap with all 2.5 induction system- no adapters

2004 Mazda 3 2.3 to 2.5 swap in progress - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum


See my thread above. I just installed a 2015 Fusion 2.5 in my 2004 3s. I used the 2.5 manifold, 2009 mazda 6 2.5 t/body and kept the 2.5 injectors. No adapters needed. Modified Fusion purge valve to make two vacuum ports. Runs excellent. No CEL or driveability issues. Documented with photos on thread.

As for the clutch. I installed a M-Pac stage 1 clutch from Rockauto. Doesn't slip at all but does engage higher than I would like. No adjustments available. Using a shim behind my flywheel would move the assembly closer to the slave cylinder actually making it grab even higher. I've toyed with the thought of possibly notching the mounting holes on the slave cylinder to move it away from the throw-out bearing lever to make the adjustment.
 

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